Day 1, Wednesday, November 6: Kilimanjaro International Airport, via Sakila Hills, Ngarasero Lodge and Usa River to Kiligolf
On November 6, I finally got a visit from my friend Jørn from my hometown Sandefjord in Norway. He brought his friend Andy. I picked them up at the airport in the morning and had told them to have their gear ready, because one of the birds they both needed were White-backed Duck and I knew were to find it between the airport and my home. Jørn got his fist lifer at the airport in the form of a Superb Starling. We drove towards the Sakila Hills wetlands and found the White-backed Duck. Other birds we found included: Little Grebe, Hadada Ibis, Blacksmith Lapwing, Knob-billed Duck, African Jacana, Barn Swallow, African Pied Wagtail, Fulvous Whistling Duck, African Swamphen, Western Cattle Egret, Black-headed Heron, African Pipit, Grey Heron, Northern Fiscal, Yellow-billed Egret, Saddle-billed Stork, Pin-tailed Whydah, African Sacred Ibis, Black-crowned Tchagra, Red-chested Cuckoo, Wire-tailed Swallow, Wood Sandpiper, Western Yellow Wagtail, Common Moorhen and Spur-winged Goose. We then drove to Ngarasero Lodge to look for African Black Duck, no such luck. We only added Reed Cormorant and Giant Kingfisher to our list. We continued to our spot for the Taveta Weaver. I parked the car and the weaver colony were alive. Form the spot we also picked up African Green Pigeon, Dark-capped Bulbul, White-eared and Brown-breasted Barbet, Speckled Mousebird, Yellow-fronted Canary and Tropical Boubou. We drove home and did some birding in the garden. My friends took a nap after Lunch. While they were napping I took pictures of both Yellow-bellied Greenbul and Brown-crowned Tchagra. At 16:00 we took a walk on Kiligolf. Here are some of the birds we picked up: Purple Grenadier, Nubian Woodpecker, Orange-breasted Bushshrike, Bronze Mannikin, Rattling Cisticola, White-browed Coucal, Tawny-flanked Prinia, Gabar Goshawk, African Palm Swift, Long-tailed Fiscal, Yellow-bellied Greenbul, African Grey Flycatcher, Red-faced Crombec, African Yellow Warbler, Chinspot Batis, Helmeted Guineafowl, Cardinal Woodpecker, Black Cuckoo, African Paradise Flycatcher, Yellow-billed Stork, Great Egret, Pied Kingfisher, Pale White-eye, Little Egret, White-browed Scrub Robin and Buff-bellied Warbler. We had now finished a shorter route than anticipated, but my Norwegian friends were very happy with quite a few lifers each under their belt. We freshened up and my maid had made a nice meal for us. The boys were tired so we all went early to bed.
Some pictures from Day 1:
Saddle-billed Stork, Ephippiorhynchus senegalensis
Western Yellow Wagtail. Motacilla flava
Common Moorhen, Gallinula chloropus
Taveta Weaver, Ploceus castanaiceps, Endemic to N. Tanzania and S Kenya
Brown-crowned Tchagra, Tchagra australis
Yellow-bellied Greenbul, Chlorocichla flaviventris
Purple Greandier, Granatina iantthinogaster, Endemic to NE Africa
Day 2: Thursday, November 7: Kiligolf.
We stayed on Kiligold all day and did some other loops. The only new birds recorded before lunch were Red-throated Twinspot, Grey-olive Greenbul and Red-headed Weaver. After lunche we walked another loop and added Hildebrandt´s Starling, African Hoopoe, Spotted Flycatcher, Green Wood Hoopoe, Black-winged Kite, Purple Heron, Laughing Dove, Garden Warbler, Little Bee-eater, Red-throated Rock Martin, Lesser Striped Swallow, Southern Black Flycatcher, Magpie, Shrike, Thick-billed Weaver. The other walked home while I took the car home. They picked up Greater Pianted Snipe and Black Crake on their way. We freshened up and had a nice meal and retired early to bed.
Some pictures from Day 2:
Long-tailed Fiscal, Lanius cabanisi, Endemic to NE Africa
White-browed Coucal, Centropus superciliosus
Day 3: Friday, November 8: Kiligolf, Lark Plains, Oldonyo Sambu, Lengijave, Kiligolf
We met for coffee at 05:45 and was at the road at 06:00. We swang off the main road at 07:30 and on the way to the Lark spot, we picked up: Taita Fiscal, Rosy-patched Bushshrike, Kori Bustard, Lesser Kestrel, Capped Wheater, Crowned Lapwing, Chestnut-belied Sandgrouse, Common Rock Thrush, Northern, Pied and Isabelline Wheatear, Fischer´s Sparrow-Lark and Short-tailed Lark. We parked the car and walked over to the Beesley´s Lark Spot and we all got good views. of Beesley´s Lark and after some time, we got Short-toed Lark together with plenty of Red-capped and Fawn-coloured. On the way to the dry fig Forest, we got Eastern-chanting Goshawk, Yellow-bellied Eremomela, White-bellied and Southern Grosbeak Canary, Rock Kestrel and White-bellied Bustard. We parked, had breakfast and picked up amongst others: Grey-capped Social Weaver, Yellow-necked Weaver, Red-throated Tit, White-bellied Go-away Bird, Von der Decken´s and Northern Red-billed Hornbill, Red-fronted Barbet, Pygmy Batis, Crested Francolin, Banded Parisoma, White-headed Buffalo Weaver, Abyssinian Scimitarbill, Kenyan Sparrow + many more. We continued to Oldonyo Sambo and looked for the Little Rock Thrush, but no luck. We continued to Lengijave and added Baglafecht Weaver, Speke´s Weaver, Singing Cisticola, Chestnut Sparrow, White-fronted Bee-eater, Abyssinian (Schalow´s) Wheatear, Black Bishop, Arrow-marked Babbler, African Red-rumped Swallow, Black Bishop, Horus Swift, Augur Buzzard, Common Buzzard, Yellow Bishop, Lynes´s Cisticola and Long-billed Pipit.
We were home quite early for the boys to take some pictures in the garden.
One picture from Day 3
Eastern Chanting Goshawk (Juvenile), Melierax poliopterus, Endemic to NE Africa
Day 4, Saturday, November 9: Kiligolf, Tarangire National Park to Karatu.
We again had an early start. We turned off from the main road around 08:30. We ticked quite a few birds at the entrance while I were paying the entrance fee. We got all the targets including Yellow-collared Lovebird, Ashy Starling, Northern Pied Babbler, Swahili Sparrow +++ before we reached our picnic spot. We added more birds including most European waders before we decided to not stop at Matete Oicnic Site. Ncve views of Fischer´s Sparrow Lark, Yellow-throated Sandgrouse and Hartlaub´s, White-bellied and Buff-crested Bustard. We returned to the gate, had lunch and the boys photographed birds at the gate. We left for Karatu and checked in to our normal guest house. Walked across for dinner and retired early to bed.
Some pictures from Day 4:
Fischer´s Sparrow-Lark, Eremopterix leucopareia, Endemic to SE Africa
Yellow-throated Sandgrouse, Pterocles gutturalis
Yellow-throated Sandgrouse (Female), Pterocles gutturalis
Harlaub´s Bustard, Lissotis harlaubi, Endemic to NE Africa
Day 5, Sunday, November 10: Karatu, via Endoro Trail to Kiligolf
We only had 5 KM to drive to the start of the trail, so we only met for coffee at 06:45. We stopped at the bottom of the hill up to the entrance to the trail, then continued on the trail, Here are some of the birds we registered: Red-faced Cisticola, White-eyed Slaty Flycatcher, White-tailed Blue Flycatcher, Brown-headed Apalis, Grey-backed Camaroptera, Mbulu White-eye, African Dusky Flycatcher, Brown Woodland Warbler, Thick-billed Seedeater, Spectacled Weaver, White-browed Robin-Chat, Tambourine Dove, Blue-mantled Crested Flycatcher, Black-fronted Bushshrike, African Hill Babbler, Black-headed Mountain Greenbul, Purple-throated Cuckooshrike, Schalow´s Turaco, African Broadbill, Green-headed Sunbird, Cinnamon-chested Bee-eater, Eastern Double-collared Sunbird, Grey-headed Nigrita and Mountain Wagtail. It had became quite hot when we reached our breakfast spot. We had breakfast and then walked quite fast down to the car. Our next stop were supposed to be Lake Eluanata in Nanja, but the boys wanted to go home and relax so I drove straight home.
Some pictures from Day 5:
Red-faced Cisticola, Cisticola erythrops
White-eyed Slaty Flycatcher, Melaenornis fischeri, Endemic to E and C Africa
Mbulu White-eye, Zosterops mbuluensis, Endemic to N Tanzania and S Kenya
Brown-headed Apalis, Apalis alticola
Grey-backed Camaroptera, Camaroptera brevicaudata
Black-headed Mountain Greenbul, Arizelocichla nigiceps, Endemic to Highland Forests of S Kenya and N Tanzania
Blue-mantled Crested Flycatcher, Trochocercus cyanomelas
White-browed Robin-Chat, Cossypha heuglini
Day 6, Monday, November 11: Kiligolf, Masai Steppes via Merirano – Kiligolf
Again, We had an early start and were at our birding spot around 07:30. Here are some of the birds we registered: Scaly Chatterer, White-headed Mousebird, Somali Bunting, Hunter´s Sunbird, Lesser Masked Weaver, Pink-breasted Lark, Northern Crombec, Black-necked Weaver, Blue-naped Mousebird, Black-throated Barbet, Red-billed Parrot, Tsavo Sunbird, Wattled Starling, Blue-cheeked Bee-eater, Southern Grosbeak Canary, Blue-naped Mousebird and Speckled-fronted Weaver We had now reached our breakfast spot and had breakfast. After breakfast my guide took my friends for a short walk. They found amongst others: Pringle´s Puffback and Golden-breasted Starling. We drove onwards to the nesting colony of the Black-capped Social Weavers and to my surprise for the first time, the colony were not active. On the way there and back to the Shambalaya Dam, we observed the following species: Fischer´s Starling, Taita Fiscal, Vulterine Guineafoul and peregrine Falcon. On the Shambalaya Dam: Striated Heron, Fulvous Whistling Duck, African Openbill, Black-winged Stilt, Blue-billed Teal, Whiskered Tern, African Fish Eagle, African Spoonbill, Squacco Heron, Black Heron, Greater Painted-snipe, Brown-throated Martin, Black Crake, Grey-headed Gull and Spur-winged Lapwing.
We returned home, relaxed in the garden, freshened up and had a nice dinner.
Here are some of the birds we registered on Day 6:
Somali Bunting, Emberiza poliopleura, Endemic to NE Africa
Southern Grosbeak Canary, Chritagra buchanani, Endemic to N Tanzania and S Kenya
Black-throated Barbet, Tricholaema melanocephala, Endemic to NE Africa
Greater Painted Snipe, Rostratula benghalensis
Common Ringed Plover, Charadrius hiaticula
Day 7, Tuesday November 12: Kiligolf – Nyumba ya Mungu Dam – South Pare Mountains – Same
We had an early start and were at our breakfast spot around 09:40. We had breakfast and also registered some species: Water Thick-knee and Kittlitz´s Plover, We drove all the way to the African Skimmer spot and had amongst others: Great White Pelican, Gull-billed Tern, African Skimmer and Grey-headed Gull. We returned to the main road and picked up a Western Osprey on the way. We drove on to Same, checked in and had lunch at Elephant Motel, relaxed a little before we drove up South Pare Mountains. We found our target South Pare White-eye, but also registered Southern Citril, Black Saw-wing, Usambara Double-collared Sunbird, Moustached Tinkerbird, Black-and-white (Red-backed) Mannikin, Olive Sunbird, Mountain Buzzard, Hartlaub´s Turaco, African Stonechat and Common Cuckoo. We returned down the mountain back to Elephant Motel, ordered dinner, freshend up, had dinner and retired early to bed.
Some pictures from Day 7:
Grey-headed Gull, Chrococephalis cirrocephalus
African Skimmer, Rynchops flavirostris
South Pare White-eye, Zosterops winifredae, Endemic to Pare Mountains in Tanzania.
Day 8, Wednesday, November 13: Same – Magamba Forest West Usambara
We had coffee at 06:45. My guide were there at 7 and we went to an area where he and I dicovered many years ago just outside Mkomazi NP. We arrived at the spot 07:10 and started ticking birds: Northern Red-fronted Tinkerbird, D´Arnaud´s Barbet, Brown-tailed Apalis, Eastern Violet-backed Sunbird, Tiny Cisticola, Chinspot Batis, Somali Bunting, Willow Warbler, Eastern Black-headed Batis, Black Cuckooshrike, Lesser Honeyguide, Brown Snake Eagle, Red-backed Shrike, Black-bellied Sunbird, Parrot-billed Sparrow, Black-chested Snake Eagle and Spot-flanked Barbet. We drove back to the Motel, orderered breakfast, packed, had breakfast and was soon on our way. Our next stop were with my friendly police, just before Soni. We managed to get both target birds there: Mocking Cliff Chat and East Coast Boubou. We continued to the market in Soni and stocked up on Vegetables, water, bread and some cookies :-). At the gate, I picked up a chicken and eggs. We were in camp by 15:00 but the weather did not look good. We managed to do a little birding before the rain really hit us hard. The only birds I registered were White-starred Robin and an Usambara Thrush that took shelter in our camp from the rain.
I made dinnner and we had a lovely meal around the camp fire. We retired early to our tents.
Some pictures from Day 8:
Northern Red-fronted Tinkerbird, Pogoniulus uropygialis, Endemic to NE Africa
Brown-tailed Apalis, Apalis flavocincta, Endemic to NE Africa
Chinspot Batis, Batis molitor
Eastern Black-headed Batis, Batis minor, Endemic to NE Africa
Eastern Violet-backed Sunbird, Anthreptes orientalis, Endemic to NE Africa
Red-backed Shrike (Female), Lanius collurio
Black-bellied Sunbird, Cinnyris nectarinioides , Endemic to NE Africa
Parrot-billed Sparrow, Passer gongonensis, Endemic to NE Africa
Usambara Thrush, Turdus roehli, Endemic to Usambara and Pare Mountains in Tanzania
Day 9: Thursday November 14: Magamba Forest
We met for Coffee at 06:45. It had cleared up during the night and the weather were great. Here are some of the birds we observed on our morning walk; African Hill Babbler, Southern Yellow White-eye, Yellow-throated Woodland Warbler, Evergreen Forest Warbler, Placid Greenbul, Fülleborn´s Boubou, Spot-throat, Usambara Akalat, Bar-throated Apalis and Black-fronted Bushshrike. I made breakfast and the weather did not look good, but in the end, we decided to take the trail around the lake. We got Black-headed Apalis before the path got to steep for Andy. He returned and Jørn and I got Usambara Weaver, White-tailed Crested Flycatcher and Shelley´s Greenbul. We were close to camp and the rain were coming, so I decided to hurry back.
The boys went downhill in the afternoon, but did not find anything new.
Some pictures from Day 9:
African Hill Babbler, Sylvia abyssinica
Evergreen Forest Warbler, Bradypterus lopezi
Yellow-throated Woodland Warbler, Phylloscopus ruficapilla
Red-capped Forest Warbler, Artisornis metopias, Endemic to Eastern Arc Mountain of Tanzania and N Mozambique
Black-headed Apalis, Apalis melanocephala, Endemic to SE Africa
Day 10: Friday, November 15: Magamba Forest via Muheza to Amani Forest East Usambara
We woke up to good weather again and birded uphill. We added the following birds to our Magamba list: African Olive Pigeon, Bar-tailed Trogon, African Black Duck, Red-faced Crimsonwing and Grey Wagtail. I made breakfast and we packed the car and were soon on our way. We stopped south of Mombo to look for Zanzibar Red Bishop, but no birds to see. We continued to Segera, where the car got diesel and we bought Samosas for lunch to eat on the way. We reached Muheza and stopped on our normal spot for Coastal Cisticola. It were easy to find. Other birds added at the spot included: Kurrichane Thrush, Cabanis´s Bunting, Eastern Golden Weaver and Green Tinkerbird. We continued up to the Amani Headquarters, met Robert and checked in. We were running a little late so only had one hour for birding. Here are some of the birds we found: Silvery-cheeked Hornbill, African Harrier-Hawk, White-eared and Green Barbet, Uluguru Violet-backed, Purple-banded and Banded Green Sunbird, Red-throated Rock Martin, African Red-rumped Swallow and Pale Batis. We returned to camp, freshened up and had a nice meal. We retired early to bed.
Some pictures from Day 10:
Yellow-bellied Waxbill, Coccopygia quartinia
Fülleborn´s Boubou, Laniarius fuelleborni, Endemic to Eastern Arc Mountains of Tanzania, N Malawi and NE Za,bia
Cape Robin-Chat, Dessonoris caffer
Coastal Cisticola, Cisticola haematocephalus, Endemic to Coastal Cisticola
White-eared Barbet, Stactolaema leucotis
Purple-banded Sunbird, Cinnyris bifasciatus
Silvery-cheeked Hornbill, Bycanistes brevis
Green Barbet, Cryptolybia olivacea
Pale Batis, Baris Soror, Endemic to SE Africa
Day 11, Saturday, November 16: Amani Forest.
We had coffee at 06:45 and then started driving uphill at 07:00. On the way up, we got Dark-backed Weaver and Long-crested Eagle. We looked for the Half-collared Kingfisher and my guide got a glimse off it, but no one else saw it. We continued to our normal spot, parked the car and got the Long-billed Forest Warbler right away. We took a walk and picked up the following species: Little Greenbul, Fischer´s Turaco, Common Square-tailed Drongo, East Coast Boubou, Tambourine Dove, Black-bellied Starling, Green-headed Oriole, African Green Pigeon, Collared Sunbird and finally Kretschmer´s Longbill. We had breakfast and drove down to another forest. The main target here were Sharpe´s Akalat. We struggled as always, but got views of it. Other birds picked up in that forest section included African Paradise Flycatcher, Red-tailed Ant Thrush and Brown-hooded Kingfisher. We kept on looking for the Half-collared Kingfisher all the way down to the Kwamkoro area, but no sign of it. We had lunch and after lunch, we drove to another area. To my surprise we got Usambara Weaver. In addition we added African Stonechat, Moustached Tinkerbird, Fischer´s Turaco and Little Rush Warbler. We did the lower loop of the botanical garden and added Green Twinspot to the list. We continued down to Zigi Forest and checked in at the guest house near Zigi Gate. We freshened up had a nice meal and retired early to bed.
Some pictures from Day 11:
Long-crested Eagle, Lophaetus occipitalis
Long-billed Forest Warbler, Artisornis moreaui, Endemic to East Usambara Mountains Tanzania and N. Mozambique
Little Rush Warbler, Bradypterus baboecala
Day 12, Sunday, November 17: Zigi Forest.
Jørn woke up early and had gone to the bridge just next to the guest house and had seen a Half-collared Kingfisher! We met for coffee at 06:45 and proceeded to Zigi Forest. Here are some of the birds we found the first morning; Mombasa Woodpecker, Red-capped Robin-Chat, Grey Cuckooshrike, Red-tailed Ant Thrush, Chestnut-fronted and Retz´s Helmetshrikes, Scaly-throated Honeyguide, Little Yellow Flycatcher, Lowland Tiny Greenbul, Green Malkoha, Plain-backed Sunbird and Forest Batis. The forest is at a low elevation (400m) so it gets quickly hot and the birding dies out + the heat is unbearable for people from Northern Europe. Before 11: we decided to go back to our guesthouse. We had a long break including lunch and were ready to go down to the forest again at at around 4. Jørn had in the meantime taken Andy down to the bridge and Andy could also tick the Half-collared Kingfisher. In the forest we added Fischer´s Greenbul, Little-spotted Woodpecker, not so good views of Usambara Hyliota, Yellow-streaked Greenbul and Trumpeter Hornbill. We returned to camp, freshened up and had a nice meal.
No Pictures from Day 12.
Day 13, Monday, November 18: Zigi Forest East Usambara – Kiligolf, Usa River.
We met fully packed for coffee that morning. We were soon on our way to Zigy Forest again. Here are some of the new birds we added: Grey Tit-Flycatcher, Eastern Nicator, Pallid Honeyguide, Usambara Hyliota and Palm-nut Vulture. We drove on and stopped for the Pale Prina spot north of Same and also found some Scaly Chatterers there. We continued and were home in good time before dark. My maid had dinner ready for us. It is always nice to sleep in my own bed.
Some pictures from Day 13:
Usambara Hyliota, Hyliota usambara, Endemic to Usambara Mountains, Tanzania
Pallid Honeyguide, Indicator meliphilus
Scaly Chatterer, Argya aylmeri, Endemic to NE Africa
Day 14, Tuesday, November 19: Usa River, Meru Forest and Kalinga Forest
We had a slow start and enjoyed breakfast at home. Our first stop were in Usa River for Pangani Longclaw (No luck). Instead we picked up Village Weaver, Golden-backed Weaver and Fan-tailed Widowbird. Next stop were Meru Forest. The normal road were blocked due to road works. We used another road and got Broad-ringed White-eye and Hunter´s Cisticola. We stopped in Usa River for lunch and then headed to Kalinga forest. Here are some of the birds we found: Kenrick´s Starling, African Emerald Cuckoo, Eastern Bronze-naped Pigeon, Common Scimitarbill, Trilling Cisticola, Forest Batis, Black-headed Apalis, Crowned Hornbill, Narina Trogon, Ashy Flycatcher, and White-necked Raven. We drove towards home and I dropped the boys close to my house to do a walk back on the Golf Course. They managed to pick up Thick-billed Weaver and Common Whitethroat.
We relaxed, freshened up and had a nice meal.
One picture from Day 14:
Forest Batis, Batis mixta, Endemic to Coastal E Africa
Day 15, Wednesday, November 20; Arusha National Park
For some reason, Jørn decided to stay home that day. I believe he had spent enough time in the car. Andy, my guide and I drove to Arusha NP. Of course they had problems with payments as always. At any rate, we entered the park and started ticking birds towards the museum and up the two forks of Ngurduto Crater. It was rather quiet, but we managed to get some birds: Moustached Grass Warbler, Black Stork, Moustached Tinkerbird African Goshawk, Waller´s Starling, Cinnamon-chested Bee-eater and Martial Eagle. We drove towards the lake, still no Pangani Longclaw, but Sentinel Lark, African Marsh Harrier, White-breasted Cormorant, Greater and Lesser Flamingo, Pied Avocet, Cape Teal, Southern Pochard and African Spoonbill. It was time to drive up Mount Meru. I had warned Andy that it would be a bumpy ride. They had actually fixed parts of the road, but he were still not too happy when we finally got up to the Waterfall. On the way down we got some excellent birds like Oriole Finch, Olive Woodpecker, Brown Woodland Warbler and Striped Pipit. I asked Andy again if it were worth the bumby road where he with his dry English humour asked “which road”. We drove down the mountain and out through the gate. Once home, we relaxed and enjoyed a nice meal.
Some pictures from Day 15:
Waller´s Starling (Female), Onychognathus walleri
Waller´s Starling, Onychognathus walleri
Cinnamon-chested Bee-eater, Merops oreobates, Endemic to East Africa
Sentinel Lark, Corypha athi, Endemic to NE Africa
Tree Pipit, Anthus trivialis
Day 16, Thursday, November 21: Kiligolf – Kilimanjaro International Airport
My guide left early that morning and the boys decided to have a relaxing day before I had a taxi pick them up to take them to the airport. In the morning, we had a beautiful Green Mamba in the tree just outside my bedroom. We registered a total of 438 species on this trip (not the best result, but I consider everything above 420 for good) In terms of lifers (Based on the lists sent to me by the boys, Jørn got 202 Lifers and Andy 209. Jørn would have beaten Andy if he had joined us in Arusha NP. All in all a decent trip, but stay tuned for the next report. The same trip I did with 2 of my Icelandic friends where we ended up with a staggering 487 birds registered.
One picture from Day 21
Green Mamba, Dendroaspis angusticeps